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13Jun/100

Things to do in Montevideo #1: Asado, Perfection in Simplicity [Uruguay]

I've heard much about the food culture in Uruguay. Anthony Bourdain introduced me to its culinary delights in No Reservations. One thing, for sure, free-range,  organic protein from four-legged animals reign supreme. Having recently learned about the  paleolithic diet, I was ready to get my paleo on.
Organic, grass-fed beef cooked from local hard woods found natively in Uruguay. I was lucky enough to get invited to an Asado at a friend's house. If you don't know anybody, there is always the Mercado del Puerto (read about it here), where you can also get a fill.

Asado is a Uruguayan bbq technique, and they take it very seriously. They scoff and scratch their heads at what we Americans view as grilling, with propane and, maybe, coal.  In Uruguay, asado is a day long affair.

The fireplace is slowly heated, and the coals are raked across the grill.  Meats ranging from costillas (ribs), morcillas (blood sausage), to chorizo are cooked with only a little bit of salt.  There is no marinating involved here. What they do is let the meat sing it's wonders as it is slowly cooked from wooden coals that are carefully distanced from the meat. The process typically takes place over 2 hours.

And Uruguyans have gotten it right. Cooking in the lowest common denominator allows the meat to simply represent itself.

No crazy and fancy sauces. My friend, DY, would be happy. Just pure, unadulterated protein.
5Jun/100

Things to do in Montevideo, Uruguay

Typically, when I travel, I don't get the chance to really soak in the culture. For 21 days, I'll be in Montevideo, Uruguay thanks to the IBD project.  I've been staying in Pocitos, which is a nice part of town within walking distance to the beach. A couple things I definitely recommend if you come to Montevideo:

  • Go watch a proper football game. We saw an exhibition game of Uruguay v. Israel.
  • Go out at night. The night starts at 2AM. Most people take a nap after work on Friday before they head out.
  • Eat a Chorizo. Just not at the stadium. They say that there is a reason there are no stray dogs around the stadium. I made this mistake and spent 4 days in the hotel. 
  • Try a Milanesa. So much is fried here, just give it a shot. It's a cross between a Tonkatsu and a Chicken friend steak.
  • Try Mate, the original wing-maker. It's a complicated process to get some caffeine. But when in Montevideo, you'll see people walking around with a thermos of hot water and a mate at all times of the day.